Friday, 2 December 2011

Peshawar


 Peshawar 

Peshawar is the capital of North West Frontier Province of Pakistan; NWFP for short. Like most ancient cities, several theories abound about its name. Babur the founding emperor of Moghul dynasty, has referred to it as 'Pushpapura', meaning the 'city of flowers'. Another theory suggests that Peshawar has been derived from Persian words 'Pish' and 'Aawar" meaning a place you encounter en route. Strategically located at the mouth of the famous Khyber Pass, Peshawar has been the Northern invasion route to India for centuries. Peshawar was founded over 2,000 years ago and became the seat of the Kushan Kings and a cradle of Gandhara Civilization. With the advent of Islam, the Persian influence brought in by the Moghuls, left a lasting impression that remains till today. Surrounded by hills and offering a mysterious charm, Peshawar has much to offer to its visitors. The population of NWFP is primarily Pathans, with a very distinctive language called 'Pushtu'. Pathans have handsome features, and they are traditionally very hospitable, but fiercely independent and a race of proud warriors, who have proved to be unconquerable. The gun totting Pathans lend a 'Frontier Town' aura, compelling some writers to call NWFP the Wild West of Pakistan. Yet this charismatic city has a unique capacity for captivating its visitors, who keep returning to be mesmerized by its charms and adventurous spirit.
 Balahisar Fort
The name Balahisar is of Persian origin and most likely given by Afghan Ruler Taimur Shah Durrani (1773 - 1793). The origin of the fort is not clear, but it is as old as the city itself, 2000 to 2500 years. The main entrance faces the old route to India. A Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsang, visited Peshawar in 630 AD, and he has described it as a royal residence of the city. According to Dr Dani, a channel of the old Bara River surrounded it once.
Historically Peshawar has always been a city of strategic importance, frequently mentioned as the seat of Ghandhara civilization. Subuktagin captured Peshawar in 988 AD, Mahmud of Ghazni in 1001 AD, Ghori in 1179 AD, and then came Babar in the 15 century and established the Mughal empire. Afghan King Sher Shah Suri destroyed the fort after the overthrow of Babar's son Humayun. Upon his return Humayun rebuilt the fort.
Ahmed Shah Durrani of Afghanistan finally took it from the Mughals and made it a residential palace. His son Taimur made Peshawar his winter capital. After his death in 1793, Shah Zaman lost it to the Sikhs in 1834, who destroyed it. Then Sher Singh on orders from his father Ranjeet Singh, rebuilt the fort. An inscription from the Sikh period still survives on a gate.
The British annexed Punjab in 1849 after defeating Ranjeet Singh's son, and extended their rule to Peshawar. At the time Balahisar was a mud fort, the British reinforced it with bricks and gave it the present day look. Till 1947, the fort also housed the treasury.
On 14 August 1947, the Pakistan flag hoisted over Balahisar, and the following year it became the Headquarters of the Frontier Corps (FC). A small museum has also been opened inside the Fort, which has a nice display of weapons, dresses, and photographs relating to the FC. The Balahisar Fort has been opened to tourism, however prior appointment is a necessary convenience. It would be prudent to take a conducted tour, preferably through Sehrai Travel & Tours details below
 Mahabat Khan Mosque
The mosque was built in mid 17th century, during the rule of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan. Mahabat Khan was governor of the Peshawar region at the time, and he financed the building of the mosque, thus the eponym.
It is a beautiful mosque in the traditional Mughal style. Set among the gold and silversmith shops, its narrow but massive entrance leads to a large prayer courtyard. In the middle of the courtyard is a cool blue tiled ablution pond, with a row of rooms on either side, and a main prayer hall towards the western side. The main hall is lavishly decorated inside and covered by three fluted domes. Two tall minars (towers) rise on either side of the main hall.
In 1826, the Sikhs had to fight their way to Peshawar and let loose a reign of terror, which continued with the appointment of General Avitabile, an Italian mercenary, as the governor of Peshawar. Every day before breakfast, he would have a few local men hurled from the top of the minar of the Mahabat Khan Mosque to "teach a lesson to the unruly tribesmen". His cruelty has passed into the folklore of the walled city, for naughty children are often warned of the wrath of Abu Tabela, a local corruption of 'Avitabile'. The top domes of the minars were destroyed by the Sikh rulers, and later rebuilt by British. Today it is well maintained by the faithfuls.
Remember to take off your shoes before entering the mosque. Ensure that you are clothed to cover your arms and legs. Also cover your head.
The Mahabat Khan Mosque is located on the narrow street of Andarshar Bazaar, inside the Peshawar City. To get there, either take the Kachairy Road to Chowk Yadgar, park there and walk west 150 meters into the Bazaar; or park diagonally across the southeast end of Balahisar Fort on Hakim Ullah Jan Road, and walk up the alley of Andarshar Bazaar. The mosque is at the highest point on the street.
 Bab-e-Khyber & Jamrud Fort
Bab-e-Khyber. The Khyber Gate was built in 1964, at the mouth of the Khyber Pass, where the Jamrud Fort is also located. Once way-out of the city, today Peshawar extends through the Hayatabad bazaar, that threatens to en-gulf the Bab-e-Khyber.
 Jamrud Fort
A well-known Sikh General Sardar Hari Singh Nalwa, proposed the construction of a big fort at Jamrud (originally Fattagarh) in 1836, in order to strengthen the base for further advances through the formidable defile. It is at the southern end of the Khyber Pass, where the Khyber gate stands across the road today. Construction was approved the following year and Hari Singh built a mud fort in an unbelievably short time of 54 days. However, Amir Muhammad Khan of Kabul (Afghanistan) sensed danger and attacked it in early 1837, he defeated the Sikhs and returned to Kabul. In April 1837, the local tribesmen followed suit and attacked the fort, killing Hari Singh.
The fortress is situated on a mound covering a hundred square yards. It has an outer wall and an inner wall and had one entrance in each wall at the time. The route inside spirals to the top, from where one can get a commanding view of the stony barrenness that leads into the famous Khyber Pass. In 1924, the British took over the fort and constructed new barracks. Today it is part of the Peshawar garrison, and prior permission is required to visit inside.